Je peux (encore) le col cravate ?

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photo Alice Pitavy

photo Alice Pitavy

Chemisier col cravate Uta Raasch, pantalon court à revers  Strenesse, sabots perso Valérie Salacroux (ancienne collection), vêtements prêtés par Peter Hahn.

C’était l’attribut de la bourgeoise élégante des seventies. La “french touch” d’une Claude Pompidou élue “lady la plus distinguée d’Europe” en 1970 par le magazine américain Look. La classe intemporelle de  Romy Schneider époque César et Rosalie et La Banquière.

Avec l’avènement des années 70 , le chemisier à col cravate redevient naturellement un objet désirable. Et si ça nous mettait dix ans dans les dents ?

• D’abord, quelle est la différence entre col “cravate” et col “lavallière” ?

Les deux se confondent : ce sont des cols montants cousus avec des pans qui partent de chaque côté.

Les puristes aiment bien les distinguer :

– la lavallière a un effet de drapé autour du cou et des pans suffisamment larges pour pouvoir former deux coques. C’est joli et un peu (trop ?) spectaculaire.

– ceux du col cravate sont plus longs ou plus fins et surtout, on les noue comme on veut. On n’est même pas obligé de faire un nœud, ils peuvent rester détachés comme une cravate négligemment défaite.

Le chemisier à col cravate est donc plus facile à vivre.

 

photo Alice Pitavy

photo Alice Pitavy

 

• C’est quoi l’intérêt d’un col cravate ?

Par rapport à un chemisier lambda (pour ne pas dire plan-plan), il a d’emblée du style.

Ça s’appelle le chic sans effort. Il n’y a plus qu’à suivre. Hum…hum…

 

• Comment décaler son côté boubourge ?

Tout le monde n’a pas la classe spontanée de Valérie Lemercier ou de sa copine Vanessa Seward qui savent tellement bien jouer avec l’esthétique du chic bourgeois sans jamais tomber dans l’ennui ou l’austérité. Jamais vieillottes. Au contraire.

Si vous craignez de ne pas maîtriser le genre (ou s’il ne vous ressemble pas), vous saurez éviter le total-look néo 70 (= chemisier + jupe midi + bottes) en injectant une dose de modernité.

Par exemple :

Associez votre chemise col cravate à un jean boy-friend, un slim blanc, un pantalon masculin, 7/8, une jupe courte… Ou détournez-le avec des accessoires (sandales-bijoux, sabots, besace, bijoux trash…).

Prête pour la cravate ?

 

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489 commentaires

matching Points

Ce qui était magnifique sur une Romy ne l’est pas sur tout le monde…Voilà un truc bien dangereux qui peut nous donner l’air de Fräulein Rottenmeier dans “Heidi”…les initiées sauront apprécier !
Faites-vous la promotion de la mode made in Germany ? 🙂


Répondre

    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Le prochain post sera : je peux (encore) la dirndl ?
    (j’en ai vu en wax du plus bel effet !)


    Répondre

      matching Points

      @mode-personnel : comme toujours vous êtes dans l’actualité, le fameux Oktoberfest vient de commencer et le dirndl est décliné dans toutes ses variantes par les people…


      Répondre

        Avatar de Anne

        Anne

        @matching Points : Je me suis acheté un dirndl cette année ! hâte de le porter à l’Oktoberfest! Qu’est ce que ca habille et rend sexy… Comme disent les allemands car grossit ce qu’il faut les brindilles et habille les rondeurs des femmes plus en chair !!


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    jicky

    @matching Points : ou Madame Holson dans la petite Maison ds la Prairie 🙂


    Répondre

jeunevieillispas

effectivement très féminin. Et, tu as raison avec un pantalon masculin, on évite le coup de vieux.


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    J’aime bien les porter avec un tailleur pantalon boyish + derby


    Répondre

Isabel

C’est vrai Isabelle, que ça fait chic. Pour bien porter le col cravate, tout est question d’attitude et d’allure.
La lavallière est aussi portée par les hommes. Je pense notamment à Cédric Villani, qui fait fureur en portant ses lavallières en soie de toutes les couleurs avec une broche comme bijou 😉


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Son look est bien plus audacieux que celui d’un hipster du Haut Marais 😉


    Répondre

Avatar de BACKROLINE

BACKROLINE

Joli et féminin…sur les autres. 😉
Je ne me vois pas aller spontanément vers ce genre de pièces, trop classique, strict, j’aurais l’impression de me prendre 10 ans dans la figure, même en le décalant.


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    C’est aussi une question d’allure… Le même chemisier col cravate racontera une histoire différente selon la personne qui le porte (au hasard Christine Lagarde vs Madonna).


    Répondre

christine

Et oui, surtout que j’en ai plusieurs en vente. Il faut bien montrer l’exemple.


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Bravo ! 😉 Les vends-tu facilement ou as-tu besoin d’argumenter ?


    Répondre

Avatar de Cat

Cat

J’adore! Aaaah, Romy dans César & Rosalie! J’ai une amie qui la porte avec une décontraction fantastique. Pour ma part, il faut que je décale vraiment parce qu’elle a tendance à me donner l’air très (trop) sage.
Bon début de semaine!


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    @Cat : Et ce n’est pas toujours si évident de savoir jusqu’où décaler.. on en a des problèmes 😉


    Répondre

Tellou

C’est marrant, je pensais plus a Simone de Beauvoir pour le col cravate/ Lavalliere.
J’avais une blouse Zara avec un grand col cravate…J’aimais beaucoup. (mais trop epais, il est reste en France..). Pour faire moins memere, je trouvais que faire le noeud sur le cote plutot que devant arrangeait les choses…
PS: c’est marrant comme les 70’s reviennent tous les deux ans, ou presque….Et c’est sympa parce que c’est par touches…


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Je trouve que cet hiver, le retour des 70’s est plus significatif. On ne peut pas passer à côté. Après, on adhère un peu, beaucoup, pas du tout…
    Bonne idée, le nœud sur le côté !


    Répondre

Avatar de Chris

Chris

Ca n’est vraiment pas mon truc, en grande partie pour les mêmes raisons que celle de Backroline. J’ai récemment regardé le film “Le mouton enragé” de Michel Deville qui date de 1974, les vêtements portés par Romy Schneider m’ont laissée indifférente. J’ai de loin préféré le style de Jane Birkin.


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Même si au quotidien, le style de Jane est plus évident, j’aime vraiment les deux… pour des raisons (des occasions) différentes. Cette décennie me parle !


    Répondre

jicky

alors, ça te va super bien, mais moi, si je mets ça avec ma façon de me tenir très droite et la tête haute (danse classique) + la poitrine + brune pas forcément hilare tout le temps…. je pense que je pourrai envisager un rôle de gouvernante dans un remake “pour pouff” des Choristes, ou dans “Jeunes filles en uniforme” (Romy)

voilà 🙂

bref, le genre de vêtement pour lequel il faut d’abord vérifier si ça nous va (ou pas).
En plus, je supporte difficilement tout ce qui est très ras du cou (y compris les gros colliers)


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Ah, ah… je vois ! Il te reste la dirdnl 😀


    Répondre

sophie

Je dis Oui ! au col cravate ! Dans une belle matière et une couleur vive pour casser le côté classique.


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Et associé à un jean Uniqlo (non, pas une polaire, STP) 😀


    Répondre

Avatar de Claire

Claire

Le col cravate, je tourne autour et je ne saute pas le pas… Je devrais essayer en boutique, ça me permettrait de voir tout de suite si je prends 10 ans avec ou pas!


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Comme tout, ne t’arrête pas au premier (il en existe en soie, en coton, imprimé, uni…). Et tout dépend de ce que tu portes…


    Répondre

Lopette

Le chemisier à col cravate est le meilleur des chemisiers à mon avis 🙂 Ce col cravate ajoute une touche légèrement masculine, et s’il est combiné avec des vêtements clairement féminins, l’effet est super !


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    J’aurais plutôt “touche féminine” (malgré la cravate)…


    Répondre

neosand

pourquoi pas ? Je ne dis non ni au col cravate ni au Lavallière: en soie, bien coupé mais avec un jean et une jolie veste Roseanna par exemple, histoire de ne pas prendre un coup de vieux et des escarpins pieds nus pour laisser voir la cheville!


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Parfait !


    Répondre

Steph

Professionnellement, je ne me vois pas porter ce style de tenue mais, pour un défilé ou le vernissage d’une boutique de vêtement je pense qu’associer avec un jean je pourrais porter un col cravate.


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Ah oui, pour un défilé ?


    Répondre

Colette Du Net

Ca ne va qu’aux très jeunes et/ou très juvéniles et minces (comme toi quoi!). Sinon ça fait dadame, pédégère à l’américaine (je ne montre pas un cm de peau en-dessous du menton), secrétaire de direction chic ou patronne de bar dans les quartiers chics (genre, j’éloigne le client entreprenant) ….
Bref très très difficile à porter.
J’ai essayé, je ne crois pas que je recommencerai, même au travail.


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Merci pour la juvénile… Me voilà ragaillardie 😉


    Répondre

Avatar de Benedicte

Benedicte

Pareil, je trouve ça chic et sexy sur toi ou Romy, mais ç’est très casse-g… surtout à mon âge (la cinquantaine), donc, je passe mon tour sur ce coup.


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Oh mais l’allure compte plus que l’âge…


    Répondre

40andsowhat

oh lalala, non pas prête du tout ! J’ai l’impression soit de me déguiser, soit de ressembler à ma grand-mère. Donc, niet, il ne passera pas par moi !!!


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Quand on ne le sent pas du tout, mieux vaut passer son tour ! Mais parfois, c’est bien aussi de tenter histoire de vérifier 😉


    Répondre

Muggen

Je suis d’accord, le col cravate, c’est vraiment efficace pour être chic sans effort.
J’aime beaucoup ce look par ailleurs.
http://www.mlle-lovemuggen.com


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Merci Mademoiselle !


    Répondre

Gaëlle

J’adore sur Romy et Vanessa Seward, mais tout leur va, donc c’est pas du jeu… Je trouve la blouse col cravate ou lavallière plutôt difficile passés 30 ans… Faut pas se louper sous peine de faire vieille bourgeoise revêche ou dans l’autre sens maîtresse femme dominatrice, la cravate avec la cravache, haha ! Je suppose que je la préfère ouverte avec la cravate qui vit sa vie, mais dans l’absolu c’est un peu trop féminin pour moi 🙂


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Olala j’ai lu “la cravache qui vit sa vie” ! #madamefouettard


    Répondre

Avatar de ladyjaja

ladyjaja

Si je la portais, dénouée, elle m’arriverait au genou …. et, fermée, j’aurais l’air d’une chaisière d’église des années 50 ! Je ne la porte donc pas et c’est tant mieux car les cols ouverts me vont beaucoup mieux !


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    Avatar de mode-personnel

    mode-personnel

    Je ne sais pas à quoi ressemble une chaisière d’église des années 50 mais je crains de le deviner !!!


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MON BLOG PERSONNEL

Oui, c'est possible de suivre les tendances sans ressembler à tout le monde. Oui, il y a plusieurs façons d'exister. Même si on n'a plus 25 ans, on peut inventer son style. Oser. S'amuser. Et se mettre en mode personnel. Je suis une spécialiste de la penderie heureuse, un guide qui vous aide à ne ressembler qu'à vous-même...

Voir mon profil

mode personnel(le)
MODE : n.f. Conforme au goût du jour. n.m. Manière individuelle de vivre, d'agir, de penser. PERSONNEL,ELLE : adj. Qui concerne une personne. Qui s'adresse personnellement à quelqu'un. MODE PERSONNELLE : n.f. La mode sur un ton personnel. Le mien, le tien, le sien.
Et si on prenait rendez-vous !
écrivez-moi ici
isabelle@modepersonnel.com
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Mes leçons de mode en librairie

You’re so French ! Cultivez votre style… Éditions de La Martinière

Mon dressing idéal, Solar

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